In terms of pure fashion, there wasn't anything outstanding or trendsetting. More of the same, actually, as most designers showed rather predictable designs, with the 'veterans' sticking to a safe zone, and once again shying away from experimentation. But the day was all for collaborations (the Aussie designers showed), and talking pure business expansion, as both Wills and the Fashion Design Council of India spoke about looking at taking Indian fashion to an ever-expanding global clientele.
She presented Gulabi - the collection inspired by her quest to discover herself. Her collection was a verdant summer garden, with large floral prints blooming all over shirts, palazzos, dresses and scarves. The show aptly ended to the song Gulabi Aankhen Jo Teri Dekhin...
Malini's collection, Wanderlust Wonderland, showed she's mastered the cunning use of western designs with Indian sensibilities. "It's for a woman like me, who travels the world and embraces style," said Malini. Jerseys were used extensively, with beading and applique giving the flowing dresses a hint of colour. It was a resort line, and as usual, Malini also showed swimwear along with short, snazzy gypsy skirts, excellent drapes and even cocktail sari dresses.
Oz Fest show: Australian designers Anna Plunkett & Luke Sales
Their line, Romance Was Born, showed a fun collection called Dream On. This show was a collaboration with Artisans of Fashion (AOF) and the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI). And so the vibrant, colourful designs had a profusion of the Banarasi brocade work, incorporated into funky, modern cuts. Shirts, fitted trousers and tunics showed hints of Indian craftsmanship, which went full-on with short skirts in brocade.
Once again, Masaba showed her love for the pale shades. She tried something new in the way she tried to incorporate bits of Banarasi zari into her contemporary designs. The sportiness of the collection was offset by the delicacy and femininity of the materials used. Alia Bhatt was her showstopper.
"My collection, Bombay Bioscope, has been inspired by all the stars from the films that have inspired me over the years," said Nida, who went easy on colours, but used digi-prints of film stars on the fabrics. The models also wore masks of Amitabh Bachchan, Hema Malini and Amrish Puri as Mogambo. Well, women who want celebrate 100 years of Indian cinema, time to wear Amitabh on your sleeve... er... pallu!
The collection was called Shivoham - funk-meets-soul search. Heavy purples, greens and blues, embellished with the spiky metallics that Kanika's so fond of, made for dresses, jumpsuits, fitted and pleated pants. "Every colour has a meaning. Red, for me, is female energy," she explained.
Her simple, neat collection was called Semah (in Sufism, a state of trance). "I've used a controlled colour palette, using natural dyes," said Urvashi. The earthy colours leant themselves to open-bottomed Patialas, and kurta variants - asymmetric tunics, farshis, pleated shararas and angrakhas .
He presented Fossil, "a collection put together," as Nachiket said, "keeping in mind that midriffs are back in fashion, as are skirts of various lengths." He kept the colours summery and easy on the eyes, apart from using cotton and organza, among other materials.
Paras and Shalini
Their collection, Lagoon, was "an outcome of a holiday in the Andamans," Shalini explained. It had pastel shades, mainly aqua, with frothy materials like chiffon and organza adding to the 'sea'touch and embroidery in reef patterns. Mugdha Godse was their showstopper.
Gauri and Nainika
This collection spelt holiday for this duo, who, apart from their signature gowns, also showed dresses, tops and jumpsuits. Bold umbrella stripes stood out, the sometimes dramatic drapes showed volume, and the floor length gowns promised glamour.
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